Summary
For the best Indian meal in Tokyo, including mouth-watering South Indian dishes such as dosas and idli, head to Vege Herb Saga. Expect to have to share a table with strangers (and the most interesting conversations with strangers you'll find anywhere in Tokyo) and a long wait for your food, but it'll be well worth it when it arrives. For a new alternative South Indian option, with a nicer venue and group dining but not as good food, head to the newer Veg Kitchen. For a small, pleasant restaurant serving fairly authentic Indian food with an interesting Japanese twist, head to Gopinathas. For prasadam (blessed Hare Krishna food) head to Govindas Edogawa, but expect difficulty finding what's vegan. They have the only evening vegetarian buffet in the weekend in Tokyo. And for insipid, overpriced "Indian" food in a setting as pleasant as an underground basement can be, or for a cheap and cheerful lunch buffet with vegan naan head to one of the Nataraj stores.
Why Indian in Japan?
Confession time: as much as I like living in Japan (which I really do) I'm not the biggest fan of Japanese food. Japanese food is deservedly famous for its beautiful presentation; it's said that this practice stems from tougher times in the past, when little food was available, so presenting it so elegantly was the best people could do, and over time this came to be believed to make the food taste better - something I've come to understand, strange as that may sound. I do appreciate a fine (or a simple) Japanese meal, especially a traditional Japanese macrobiotic meal or Shojin Ryori (temple food, though I can't say I like it enough to pay hundreds of dollars for it) but for me no beautiful arrangement of rice and vegetables, however fresh and perfectly cooked and impeccably presented, can beat the fire and spice of an authentic Indian meal. Back in Taiwan I used to really crave Indian food, but the restaurants there are notoriously bad for not serving veg food, so I used to really enjoy Indian food in Tokyo. This post is to introduce my favourite vegetarian Indian restaurants in Tokyo.
Vege Herb Saga
Vege Herb Saga is my favourite Indian restaurant in Tokyo, and I think I share that with most resident vegetarian Indians in the city.
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| Mysore Masala Dosa |
Vege Herb Saga is a little piece of India, right here in Tokyo, down to the beaming chef in a white jacket and, most importantly, steaming hot delicious South Indian foods, such as Dosas and Idli. A sign on the wall (in Japanese) explains that during busy times (which seems to be most of the time) customers are asked to sit together until all seats are taken, and that meals may take a while as each dish is cooked separately. As such, it might not be everyone's idea of an ideal spot for a first date or business lunch, but it's also an interesting opportunity to meet a range of interesting people who have also sought out Tokyo's only South Indian vegetarian restaurant. So forget the nightclubs in Roppongi: of all conversations I've had with strangers in Tokyo, by far the most interesting ones have been at Vege Herb Saga. The sign also warns that food can take some time to prepare - and that it does: allow up to an hour, or two if you order a time-consuming dish on a busy Saturday night (your other dishes will come out during this time). But you'll soon see why: however busy the chefs are, your meal will be cooked to perfection from fresh ingredients. So don't let any of this put you off: Vege Herb Saga is the place to come for the best Indian food in Tokyo.
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| Masala Vada |
I recently met the owner, who explained that there are several hundred
Jains (strict vegetarians who live their lives in such a way to minimise all harm to living creatures) living in the surrounding community - including himself - mostly in the diamond trade. He started the restaurant three years ago because, while business was going fine, he needed somewhere to eat! So his restaurant is intended as a place for vegetarians to find safe food, rather than for profit. This may seem like the perfect marketing story for any business, it does explain why he's done so little marketing that for a whole year I Googled "South Indian Vegetarian Tokyo" and didn't find it, and it was only added to Happycow a few months ago. His reputation has clearly spread by word of mouth, especially among the vegetarian Indian community, and on my first visit I had dinner with two friendly jewellery salesmen visiting Tokyo for an expo, one a Hindu and one a Jain, who had eaten there every night of their visit. It was obvious that this is where visiting vegetarian Indians come to eat, but about half of the tables in the (full) restaurant were occupied by local Japanese groups.
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| There's just nothing like a good Masala Dosa! |
However, despite the location and lack of marketing, it's not just sought out by vegetarian Indians with nowhere else to eat: on my second visit I sat with a group of students - one a connoisseur of Indian food - who had come because in some major competition it had won fifth place of all Indian restaurants in Tokyo - not bad for a vegetarian jaunt in a cramped and cluttered basement! The reason, the owner explained to me, is that he uses only top-quality ingredients, and has fresh spices delivered from India regularly. This, and the food being cooked to order, makes this one of the best Indian restaurants I've ever been to, and a must-visit while in Tokyo for anyone who likes authentic Indian food.
New Location
Veggie Herb Saga recently moved into new premises, which appear to be a converted Karaoke lounge. While it's still an underground room, it's much more spacious than the previous location, and it feels more like a restaurant than dining in the owner's personal kitchen. There are also dedicated wait staff, and the whole place looks and feels more like a restaurant. The menu has also been expanded. It still might not be the ideal place for a first date or business lunch, but it's closer to the mark than the old place.
Menu & Prices
Vegan items on the menu are labelled with a sticker. A drink, snack and dosa meal costs around 2000 Yen.
Essentials5-22-1, Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Lunch: 11:15 - 15:00 (LO 14:30)
Dinner: 17:15 - 23:00 (LO:22:30)
03 5818 4154
090 1818 6331
Website,
HappycowVeggie Herb Saga is a two-minute walk from the South Exit of JR Okachimachi Station on the JR Yamanote and Keihin Tohoku Lines, and is also near several subway stations. Please note that it often shows up on old maps in different places. If in doubt, I recommend printing the address from their website. It's worth having an explore around this very old Tokyo suburb. It would make a good stop before (or after) visiting Ueno Park.
Veg Kitchen
Yet another vegetarian Indian restaurant has joined the Tokyo scene, this one another South Indian establishment run by a former chef from Veggie Herb Saga. When I heard he was leaving to run his own restaurant I hoped it would be an upmarket dining establishment, in a different locality, giving the option of a simple ‘Indian Kitchen’ at Veggie Herb Saga or fine dining elsewhere, as these would have complemented each other nicely. Unfortunately it’s a few minutes walk away, serving similar food at similar prices, thus competing for the same Jain or other Indian vegetarian clientele.
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| The masala papads were delicious. |
Prices at the Veg Kitchen are similar to Veggie Herb Saga, and staff are very friendly and welcoming at both. Both are open similar hours, but the Veg Kitchen may sometimes be open on Sundays.
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| You can't go wrong wit South Indian snacks. |
The Veg Kitchen originally offered an alternative in a nicer venue, but now that Veggie Herb Saga has moved I don't really see where the Veg Kitchen can find its niche except for smokers and drinkers (see below). Being a first and second floor restaurant it is still a nicer venue, but much less significantly so than before, when Vege Herb Saga was located in a tiny, cramped basement.
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| 2nd-floor dining |
The main drawcard for the Veg Cafe is the larger dining area, meaning you are more likely to get your own table. This is likely a good thing if you’ve come with friends or family to enjoy a meal together, however it’s also worth noting that many of my most interest conversations with strangers in Tokyo have been at Veggie Herb Saga.
The Veg Kitchen has a wider menu, including some “Indian Chinese” dishes, one of which I liked and one I didn't. The owner is very happy to accommodate vegans, however it’s necessary to ask, and when he ran through the menu he missed some items which were clearly not vegan. He also said that nan were vegan, which is possible but seems unlikely, as the menu traditionally calls for milk (and without it it’s not really nan). Vegan items are labelled on the menu at Veggie Herb Saga and I’ve never had any problems.
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| This Indian-Chinese dish was much too oily and salty for my taste. |
The Veg Cafe serve alcohol, which may appeal to some, however they also allow smoking during dinner, which can be quite unpleasant (if you don't smoke). They also provide Hookah's which further add to the smoke in the air.
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| The Veg Kitchen are quite accommodating to vegans, but at Veggie Herb Saga vegan items are labelled on the menu. |
Where the Veg Kitchen falls seriously short of Veggie Herb Saga, however, is on the quality of its food. Veggie Herb Saga began as (and I think still is) the kitchen of the owner for his family, friends and visiting colleagues, (who, being Jains, would have had a tougher time even than vegans finding food in Tokyo). And he knows what he likes. He orders fresh spices from India regularly, and roasts them in-house (I’ve seen it) and the taste it brings to all their food is divine - probably the best Indian meals I’ve had anywhere, including India.
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| Chana Masala |
During my first visit to the Veg Kitchen the Chinese dish was much too salty and greasy for my liking, the masala dosa and lacha paratha were both a little too well done, and I think they use typical curry powders and mixes. In subsequent visits I've found dishes somewhat hit and miss, with some comparable to Veggie Herb Saga and some far off. This is of course nothing unusual, and their food is at least as good as most other Indian restaurants in Japan, but in all fairness Veggie Herb Saga is a cut above for freshness and quality of food.
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| A masala dosa is always delicious, even if a tiny bit too well done, as I thought this was. |
During my first visit on a Saturday evening, soon after it opened, it enjoyed a steady stream of customers, mostly Japanese and a few Indian, despite not yet having a website or facebook page. Since then it's quickly becomming more and more popular.
So, in conclusion, if you want a beer (or cigarette) with your meal, and a slightly nicer venue, head to the Veg Kitchen. But just don't expect the quality of Veggie Herb Saga, which is the 'real deal' for Jain dining in Tokyo. It’s great to have two vegetarian South Indian restaurants in Tokyo, and I hope business goes well for both.
EssentialsThe only reference I can find online is this
Timeout article.
Address: 3-44-8, Taito, Taito-ku
Lunch: 11am-3pm
Dinner: 5pm - 11pm
May close on Sunday - call ahead.
Phone 03 58178165
2015 UpdateVeggie Herb Saga are now offering cooking classes on alternating Sundays.
Gopinathas
Gopinatha's is essentially the old Govinda's Restaurant (not to be confused for Govinda's Edogawa-ku, below, a separate establishment) which has been reopened by its former (and current) chef.
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| Pakoras and Curry at Gopinathas. The tomato sauce on the Pakoras is amazing. |
Gopinatha's food is perhaps slightly more 'Japanisiced' Indian than that at Vege Herb Saga or the Veg Kitchen, but its Japanese twist adds to the flavour rather than diluting it, as is the case at Nataraj (where chilli and garam masala are optional, paid extras). Gopinatha's food certainly fresh and flavourful, and the owner/chef is very happy to make a set vegan, and they are excellent value. Gopinathas is well worth a visit, especially if you are in the area or you would like an Indian meal but don't have an hour or two to wait or want your own table. Govindas Edogawa-ku
Govinda's Edogawa-ku is a vegetarian Indian restaurant associated with Tokyo's ISKCON temple, to which it is attached. ISKCON is the International Society for Krishna Consciousness, commonly known as "Hare Krishnas" (from their chant) in the west. ISKCON followers believe that the cow is sacred (as do Hindus) and the consumption of dairy products is an integral part of ISKCON life. ISKCON temples often have their own farms, at which the cows are treated very well so far as their welfare is concerned, and they are even cremated when they die - always at the end of their natural life. Unfortunately, humane as it may be (albeit a breach of their fundamental rights in my opinion) it is needless to say very inefficient, and most of these farms can no longer provide enough dairy products to sustain the society's temples and restaurants, let alone all their members. So most ISKCON restaurants serve conventionally farmed (which I guess in Japan probably means factory farmed) milk products.
During discussions with ISKCON followers, including in New Zealand and in India, I've often met strong opposition to veganism, and while their restaurants tend to cater to vegans (I guess due to their food's popularity among vegans) I've never found them to be very supportive of the vegan philosophy.
While Govinda's is certainly open to anyone, on my last visit I couldn't help but feel I was intruding on the temple, as most customers were dining after visiting the temple next door (while also "contributing to its welfare" as the website states). This could have been because of a major event at the temple, and I haven't always experienced it.
Govindas have a weekend buffet and an a la carte menu at all times (including weekends). In my opinion the dinner buffet is hardly worth the 1800 Yen and the trip to Funabori. On my most recent visit two of the four main dishes were vegan, but I needed to ask the helpful waiter, as vegan items are never labelled. Moments later, the same waiter appeared with the standard basket of nan and dosas, and after I (again) explained about the milk, he confirmed it had milk (seemingly unaware still that I wouldn't want to eat it, despite asking about dairy in the curries) and later re-appeared with rotis, which, as he helpfully explained didn't contain any milk. They were, however, smeared with butter or ghee. He gave up after that.
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| dinner buffet meal at Govindas Edogawa: sambar, curry, rice, dosa and salad (1800 Yen) |
I think it's fair to say that the staff are all devoted ISKCON members, and have almost certainly grown up considering the cow sacred and its dairy products vital foods for physical and spiritual health, and they are simply not interested in entertaining any other diet or lifestyle, even for a few minutes so that they can serve their customers food they will eat. It's a pity, because it's the only evening (vegetarian) buffet meal in Tokyo during the weekend, and if it had a good variety of trustworthy vegan food it could be an excellent meal out. But as it is I'm in no hurry to go back.
Like Jains and Mahayana Buddhists, ISKCON followers don't use onion or garlic. I don't know if it's this or something else, but I generally find their food satisfying enough, but a little bland and watery. They serve basmati rice, but only white rice. The salad didn't have a dressing.
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| Dosa set from Govindas Edogawa Ku |
I once went in the afternoon, and had a reasonable Masala Dosa, but it didn't compare to the fresh and flavoursome masala dosas I've had at Veggie Herb Saga.
All said if you want a satisfying all-you-can-eat buffet for dinner in the weekend, it's probably worth considering going out to Funabori Station (Govinda's is a few minutes walk from it) and certainly preferable to spending up to double that on a few small servings of (burnt?) curries at Nataraj, Japan's oldest Indian vegetarian restaurant.
Nataraj
Nataraj have been around for decades, and are somewhat of an institution among vegetarians in Japan. However I think they're cashing in on their reputation, and are now well-overpriced (except the lunch buffet - see below) and I only recommend them for if one is in dire need of a cheap, filling meal (at lunchtime) or one really wants to entertain a formal party in a nice setting with "Indian" food and can't make it to Gopinathas.
Nataraj restaurants are like the antithesis of Vege Herb Saga, and in that sense they complement each other nicely. To any connoisseur of Indian food, Nataraj will have a chain-restaurant feel, and the food will taste very insipid, as if the chef forgot the spice and then watered down the curry to save money; even paying the extra 100 Yen for chilli powder in your curry (yes, really, and it's more if you want Garam Masala) their curries simply don't taste like Indian food to me. On the upside, the milder twist on Indian curries may appeal to those not so familiar with 'real' Indian food, including perhaps some Japanese more accustomed to the subtler flavours of Japanese cuisine, however Gopinatha's adds a Japanese twist rather than just diluting the Indian flavours. At Nataraj you are sure to get your own table, with and only with the company you brought for the meal, and your order will be delivered very quickly (even if it's burnt as a result - see below).
Weekday Buffet The weekday-only 1180 Yen lunch buffet (below) is nothing to blog about, but undoubtedly the cheapest filling meal in Tokyo, and their vegan Naan are quite good, and a rare find. Unfortunately the Osaka Branch closed in May 2015.
Dinners  |
| A good vegan naan imitation and a typical, watery, overpriced "Chana Masala". |
Dinners at Nataraj, however, are
grossly overpriced in my opinion. Serving sizes are very small, and a barely satisfying meal for two (including a drink each, poppadoms, a shared entree, two curries and two naans) comes to about 7,000 Yen. On my last visit (and it certainly will be my last visit) the Aloo Gobi came out very burnt, with strong aftertaste and the whole cumin seeds in it charcoal black. After politely asking if the waitress/manager could try it to check it was how it was supposed to be, the chef came out and told us that it was intentionally burnt, and that it was perfectly fine and healthy and gave it more flavour. (He also admitted, truthfully, that it's easy to burn aloo gobi because it's a dry curry.) I posted more on
my Happycow review, but it's probably enough to say that Nataraj are a reasonable option for a cheap lunch buffet, but are simply not worth considering for dinner, even if you pay the extra to have your food spicy and can convince them that you prefer your curries not burnt. A better meal can be had at every other Indian vegetarian restaurant in Tokyo, often for half the price.
My visits were to the Aoyama Branch, and I understand the Ginza branch to be even more expensive, and I don't know whether or not they burn their curries to add flavour. There are also branches in Tateshima and Ogikubo.
Non-vegetarian Indian Restaurants?  |
| In much of Japan, a chana masala from the local Indian restaurant is the best vegan option. |
Most Indian restaurants in Japan serve North Indian food, and most will have a chef who speaks some English and can do a vegan dish, however there are several risks involved, in particular many may use a pre-made non-vegetarian curry sauce for all their curries, adding chicken to a chicken curry or chick peas to a chana masala . I generally ask to speak to a chef and try to get a feeling of how honest he (it's always he) is being, and then usually proceed with an order if I trust he's making enough effort to ensure that my meal will be. My worst experience was at a restaurant in Nagasaki (which, not surprisingly, seems to have gone) where the English-speaking waitress clearly understood my order, but still the roti were smeared with ghee, the salad with a mayonnaise dressing and the curry with curd in it. They just couldn't be bothered, so I paid for the samosas (frozen on the inside and burned to a crisp on the outside) and the one roti I'd eaten, and left.I didn't have much luck anywhere else in Nagasaki either.
The Nan TestThe best way to test if a restaurant will cater to vegans is to ask about breads. Nan bread us always made with milk (and usually egg) and must be prepared the night before and fermented. If they staff quickly point out that nan bread aren't vegan, I trust them. If they don't think of it, it's a bad sign as they haven't really understood. If they promise to make a vegan one (as many do) I walk out, as it means they either have no idea or (in most cases) just don't care, and are telling me what they think I want to hear in order to get my meal through as fast as possible. This of course does not apply to vegetarian restaurants like Nataraj which prepare vegan nan daily.
Tips1. Try to identify restaurants which are run by Hindus instead of Muslims. This seems discriminatory, but Hindus are familiar with the concept of vegetarianism, and they grow up being taught that they should be vegetarian themselves, so most hold it in high regard. Muslims, by comparison, are taught that killing animals for food is morally acceptable, so long as they are killed in an especially cruel manner (Halal slaughter). The difference on consciousness to vegetarianism is significant, at least from my experience. Hindu restaurants can usually be identified by gods on the walls, and Muslim establishments by references to halal meat.
2. Never order a set meal, as the curries are pre-made, and are likely to have animal-based stocks to appeal to local tastes.
3. Order a dry curry, such as chana masala (chickpea curry) or (sometimes) an aloo gobi (potatoes and cauliflower), even if they're not on the menu. This means they're more likely to make it up on the spot (which a skilled Indian chef can do in minutes) and is thus a safer bet for a vegan meal. These two dishes traditionally don't use dairy products.
Common Traps1. In Japan many restaurants (especially chain restaurants in shopping malls) add an egg to the pakora batter, to make it more like Japanese tempura.Likewise samosa pastry occasionally contains milk and/or egg, so it's good to ask whether or not they make it themselves. Many wait staff will have no idea, however, and may be reluctant to find out.
2. Rotis are often smeared with ghee (clarified butter).
3. Many staff don't think of mayonnaise (used for salad dressings) as containing milk or egg.
